HARD SCRABBLE BLOOMS DAHLIA GROWING GUIDE
Although some believe dahlias are difficult to grow, we’ve developed a simple, reliable system on our farm that produces thousands of stunning blooms each season. Whether you're a home gardener or a commercial grower like us, mastering the art of growing dahlias can bring immense joy to you and your family. Our approach is straightforward, requiring no elaborate techniques or specialized supplies—just a love for these incredible flowers.
SELECT THE PERFECT DAHLIA PLOT
Dahlias thrive in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. We plant ours in full sun and don’t recommend them for partly shady spots—they need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Depending on your soil’s drainage and your growing space, you can plant dahlias directly in the ground.
You can build raised beds using wood frames or simply mound soil into raised rows, ensuring the dahlia tubers sit above ground level. This approach allows the tubers to absorb water without becoming waterlogged, as excessive moisture can lead to rot.
Investing in your soil is a critical step in growing healthy, productive dahlias. Dahlias are nutrient-demanding plants, so ensure they’re well-fed throughout the season. Once you’ve selected the perfect plot, amend the beds with 2–4 inches of high-quality compost, well-rotted manure or a balanced organic fertilizer. Mix these amendments thoroughly into the soil to distribute nutrients evenly and set your dahlias up for success.
Follow along!
Planting tubers should wait until the ground temperature is at least sixty degrees Fahrenheit and all danger of frost has past. On our farm, we plant them around the May long weekend. Cool, soggy dahlia tubers are not happy and will be prone to rot.
PLANT SPACING AND PLANTING “EYE UP”
To plant dahlias, dig a hole 6–12 inches deep and position the tuber horizontally, with the growing eye facing upward. Gently refill the hole with soil once the tuber is in place. Since dahlias grow quite large, spacing is essential. Allow at least 12–18 inches between plants. On our farm, we typically plant ours 12 inches apart, but larger dinnerplate varieties benefit from 18–24-inch spacing to ensure better air circulation and healthier growth.
WATERING
Once you see green shoots emerging from the soil, it’s time to start your watering routine. For home gardeners, we recommend watering deeply 2–3 times a week, depending on rainfall. For commercial growers, we use one row of drip tape per bed and run it for 4-8 hours once twice week to provide a deep soak. Dahlias require significant water to support their lush blooms.
STAKING
Dahlias truly need to be staked for proper support. With blooms often growing on 3-6 foot stems, they can become top-heavy—especially the beloved large dinnerplate varieties. To protect them from high winds or thunderstorms, it’s essential to stake them by the time they reach about 3 feet tall. This simple step will save you from heartbreak later.
Instead of using expensive netting, we rely on wooden stakes spaced about 6 feet apart. We then run two rows of twine along the sides of the bed, crossing the twine between groups of four stakes to create a sturdy grid. This method eliminates the hassle of netting while effectively corralling the dahlias to prevent them from flopping over.
For smaller-scale growers, a simple tomato cage works well to keep your blooms upright and supported.
KEEP THEM CUT
If you want your dahlias to bloom abundantly until frost, keep cutting them! Regular cutting encourages vigorous growth, resulting in more blooms from each plant. When harvested at the right stage, dahlias should last 5–7 days in a vase.
The best time to harvest is early morning, when the flowers are well-hydrated. Be sure to pick blooms that are fully open, as dahlias do not continue to open much after cutting. Avoid harvesting flowers with papery or browned petals at the back, as these are likely past their prime. If a bloom is too old to cut, simply deadhead it to encourage more growth and keep your plants producing.
DIGGING AND STORING FOR THE WINTER
In our zone, dahlias need to be dug up as the weather becomes too cold and wet during the winter. After the last frost, we use a pitchfork to carefully lift our tubers. We shake/rinse them off and allow the clumps to air dry for a day to prevent excess moisture. Next, we store them in a crate with wood chips and place them in our basement, which maintains a temperature around 50 degrees. Dahlias must be stored between 4-6 C, as freezing will cause them to rot and turn mushy.
A well-insulated, protected space is crucial—avoid unheated garages. Any cool, dark area will work. Throughout the winter, we regularly check on them to ensure they aren’t shriveling or developing mold. If a tuber is shriveled, lightly misting with water can help restore moisture. For mold, a simple spray of isopropyl alcohol or bleach followed by wiping away the mold works effectively.
Once the risk of frost has passed in spring, you can pull them out and get ready to plant!
Dahlias bring so much beauty to your home and garden! Feel free to reach out to us at hello@hardscrabbleblooms.comwith any questions. Wishing you HAPPY GROWING!